Tuesday, 14 February 2017

Silver How, Grasmere, The Lake District, Feb 2016

Today is my lovely friend Liz's birthday, so I thought I'd create a post about something memorable that we did together. Last year at this time we were on holiday in Grasmere, the Lake District. One day we left our men behind for a change and went for a rather challenging walk up Silver How mountain. Well, to be truthful, the walk is rated as easy-to-moderate on the map, but for us, inexperienced fell walkers, it was far from being easy.

We left the village of Grasmere by the road that leads to the lake. I am always fascinated by the many white washed houses in the Lakes strewn all over the landscape and making it look like scenes from story books.

I don't think I could have got a better foreground to a rural lakeland scene than sheep at their feeders.

We soon turned onto a rocky path and continued along a steep climb. I made sure to often turn back to admire the views.

Another scene with white washed houses caught my eye. Just couldn't resist their charming starkness.

Dry stone walls are another favourite of mine in any English countryside. There was a cairn near this one, a stone stack built by walkers, which is a regular sight in the Lake District. Cairns usually stand as landmarks, and come in all sorts of sizes and shapes.

We passed through many wooden gates like the one in the bottom right corner. At this stage the views were getting more and more spectacular. Love the curve of the dry stone wall framing the distant mountain.

The winter sun was trying to break through the clouds. I had to act quick to catch it shining on this beautiful tree and its surroundings, leaving behind the snow covered peaks in the distance.

A lot of the time the lighting was very contrasty for panoramic photography, and the exposure quite tricky as shown by the hazy and rather overexposed detail in the background of this image. But I must say I am not overly fussed with technicalities of photography, conveying the mood of the moment being my main interest.

Our path was getting steeper and steeper, but we were enjoying the ascent.

Another look back....so much to marvel at in the wonderful world of nature!

  I love the mixture of beauty and drama in the lakeland landscape.

Liz, my beautiful friend, with her cheeks rosy from the cold air and energetic climb up the mountain.

The view to our left over Grasmere lake. It was taken from approximately the highest point we went to, about half way through the circular walk. From here onwards the path became less than a foot wide, completely exposed with sheer drop to the left, and boggy as well, as we approached a stream. The stream was only narrow but beyond it the path seemed unclear, sharply bending to the right, you could not see where. We decided going any further would be going out of our comfort zone; we didn't want any sort of stress to possibly spoil our hike, so we started retracing our steps to go back down the way came.

A view of Grasmere lake somewhere on our descent.......

......and another one as we were nearing the road.

It would have been nice to have completed the circular walk, but we were content with what we did, and just happy we'd got to do this together. Getting high up on a Lake District mountain to enjoy magnificent nature sights is all we wanted.
Back in the village it was time for a nice warming bowl of home made soup.
I couldn't think of a better way to spend time with a good friend and can't wait for us to do it again.
This is how we spent Liz's birthday in the Lakes last year; and this the day after

Sunday, 5 February 2017

Rokov Perivoj (Roko's Park), In Winter, Zagreb, Croatia

One afternoon, during my recent visit to my ailing Mum in Zagreb, I popped to town while she was having a physio therapy. I thought I'd take advantage of the time to capture with my camera some of the lovely winter atmosphere in my native town. I had previously been reminded of Rokov perivoj (Roko's Park) through the Zdenko's Corner blog that I follow and love. I think even though I knew about the park, I had never actually been to it. It seemed like a perfect place for me to go to on that cold, but sunny winter afternoon, so I did.

The park is situated in the heart of the city, but it is hidden high up on a hill, above the busy Britanski trg (British Square), and it can be reached either by a steep climb from the square, or by a long flight of stairs on the opposite side. It is a peaceful and serene place, ideal for a gentle stroll, a quiet, reflective rest, or simply for drawing inspiration from.

On this particular winter day the grass and paths were all blanketed in snow from a few days ago. Owing to freezing temperatures the snow never got a chance to melt; on the contrary it turned into icy stuff that crunches under your feet and gleams in the winter sunlight.

Childrens' playground features made for a striking, wistful detail in their snowy surroundings. I liked how the red slide stood out in the pale winter scene.

Until 20th century Rokov perivoj was a rural, farming suburb. With the industrial age and birth of aristocracy there was a growing interest in prestigious housing. In 1909, Viktor Kovacic, one of the most renowned architects of the time, was commissioned to design an affluent residential area at Rokov Perivoj preserving green spaces through urban landscaping. A number of villas were built and given to some of the most acclaimed artists, who in return donated their work to the city. Robert Franges-Mihanovic, a celebrated Croatian sculptor lived here, as well as painters Robert Auer and Jozo Kljakovic, to name just a few.

Villa Deutch, a fine example of Roko's perivoj's villas.

A close up of a detail from another villa.

This is Elegija (Elegy), the Franges-Mihanovic's sculpture which authorities refused to exhibit publicly. The ban was lifted only when the Franges-Mihanovic heir donated the sculptor's collection to the city on condition that Elegy was displayed freely.

St Roko's Chapel, a charming, recently renovated chapel which was built in the17th century as an act of gratitude on the part of those who survived a devastating plague. I really like the backlighting here and the pattern of the remaining snow on the roof.

An interesting point in the history of the park is that it used to be a cemetery. The cemetery was closed and exhumed in 1877 when the famed Mirogoj became the city's main burial ground.

Attractive Aleksandrove stube (Alexandar's Stairway), built in 1935. The stairs connect the park to the city centre from its eastern side. Whilst I am open-minded towards graffiti art, I am not a fan of random graffiti scribblings; sadly, a lot of people in Zagreb must be as the old custom of putting graffiti on Zagreb's walls seems to be impossible to eradicate. I think it's a shame that these people are not sensitive to the aesthetic appearance of their own city.

Anyway, I was so pleased I'd paid a visit to the beautiful, idyllic Rokov perivoj, and am looking forward to returning at a different time of the year to see how it gets transformed by seasons. It may even become my little haven when I need a quick respite and a bit of peace and solitude when I am in Zagreb.

Sunday, 29 January 2017

At Home With Mum in Zagreb

I had not been in Zagreb in winter since I left for England in 1988. I was always able to choose the time of year for my visits, and it was always spring or late summer, when the weather in Zagreb is nice, but not too hot. However, lately my Mum has been poorly after a stroke, so in mid January I decided I had to make a short, unplanned visit to see her. She is recovering well, and we had a lovely time together. It was bitterly cold with freezing temperatures going down as far as -12 degrees Celsius, but I took it in my stride and managed to enjoy winter in my beloved native town.
My Mum lives in Tresnjevka, the biggest area of Zagreb, only a few tram stops from the city centre. She lives in a house she had had built in the 1990s.
I wanted to spend all my time with Mum and didn't plan on going out to take photos. I didn't even bother to take my DSLR with me; I only packed my little compact Sony. One afternoon, while my Mum was having a nap, I nipped out and took a few shots of the area around the house. I also have some pics I took on my local shopping trips. In this post I'm sharing my favourite photos that sum up my brief stay with Mum.

The lovely log burner in my Mum's living room/kitchen. It was life and soul of our days creating a toasty and cosy atmosphere and adding magic to the cold  wintery days.

A little cul-de-sac branch of the street my Mum lives in, called "Nova cesta" (New Road). It is a quiet place behind a primary school. I like it particularly because it looks like it belongs to a village, whereas it is not far from the centre of a big and bustling city.

Nova cesta Street (New Road Street) is a very long street that changes its appearance greatly from wide and very busy stretches to quiet and narrow ones like this one. On the left there is the school behind which my Mum lives. This is always my way home coming back from either town or local shops.

A typical block of flats at Zagreb's Tresnjevka with a green in front of it.

This is Tresnjevacki trg, the main square of the area. The photo shows Konzum, the supermarket I go food shopping to. I also get off my tram here on my way back from town. The colours were lovely on this sunny winter afternoon.

My Mum is lucky to live just a three minute walk from Tresnjevacka trznica (market). It is one of the great city's outdoor markets surrounded by shops and kiosks, where you can buy virtually everything; as Croats would say - everything " from needle to locomotive". I love it here because it is one of the best places to experience the spirit of the city and indulge in getting what is traditionally Croatian. I always make sure to buy a few Croatian goodies to take back with me to England. The two photos above were taken on a misty and extremely cold morning; the sellers were covering their produce with blankets trying to keep it from getting frozen. I felt sorry for them, the more so because the freezing weather made a lot of people choose to buy their fruit and veg at the supermarket across the road.

Part of the Julije Klovic primary school. My Mum's house faces the rear of the building. Incidentally, the school was founded in 1962, the year I was born in, but I didn't go to school here as we lived in a different part of the city. It was a sunny afternoon when I took this photo, but so very cold with the old iced up snow glistening in the sunlight. I remember I could hardly feel my camera between my fingers.

The attractive, recently renovated chimney of Tresnjevacka toplana (heating plant). Its white plume of smoke on cold days indicates that heating is working well in the area. Love seeing the red and white stripy top of the chimney with its puffy, white smoke against blue sky.

This is the small park behind my Mum's house. I love it; there is nothing like living next to a little peace of nature. The park is beautiful in summer, of course, enveloped in the green foliage of trees, but it had a special magic charm on this sunny, winter afternoon.

The back of my Mum's house (the red one) and of the lovely neighbour's house (the blue one). I like the colours of the two houses together and the way they stick together, just like their inhabitants do. I may be a little partial but I do believe these two are the nicest houses in the street.

The warm low sunlight was painting everything in beautiful colours that afternoon....the whole world was beautiful..... it was a winter wonderland for me......

A row of brown winter hydrangea against the wall of a long and short building made me smile (I am a sucker for hydrangea), together with the little forlorn Christmas tree left out there after recent holidays.

This is the view of the park as we see it from my Mum's house. It is a perfect sight to look at at any time of day and especially to wake up to in the morning.

The unusual three step stairway always draws my attention ....

This is the gate and front of my Mum's house. There is a garage on the left built in front of the house, thus forming a secluded courtyard between its rear wall and the house. I must admit it all looks much more inviting and charming in summer when there are leaves and fruit on the huge fig tree in the yard, vine and grapes overhead inside the gate, colourful roses against the white garage wall and purple passion flower blooming against the wall opposite.

My dear, frail Mum resting with her two gorgeous cats who keep her constant company. I'm missing them all very much and cannot wait to return this summer; by then my Mum will have hopefully returned to full health, and we will be able to go together to all those places we couldn't go to this winter.

Friday, 13 January 2017

Cotton Balls in Winter

Have you ever seen cotton plant at its cotton balls stage? Well, I hadn't until I bought this delightful, seasonal, winter bouquet at the local supermarket. It contained a fascinating long twig with fluffy white balls. I couldn't resist a few quick shots of the twig on its own. I love the way it resembles a withered plant whose seed heads have been buried in fallen snow. Its amazing wintery look, despite, of course, not being a winter plant at all, made me process the image in subtle, cool blue tones creating a cold winter feel. Oh yes, I embrace winter, just like I embrace all the other seasons. Each season is beautiful in its own right, and I never wish away any of them.... not a single day.....

Tuesday, 3 January 2017

One Last Christmas: Red House Museum, Gormesal, Bronte Landmark

On Sunday, 11 December I went to a beautiful and very special Christmas event that I will always remember - The Red House Museum Christmas event. I have visited this museum several times, but didn't know about this annual event, and when I learnt about it earlier in 2016, I knew I mustn't miss the forthcoming one, particularly because it was going to be the Museum's last Christmas: sadly, on 21 December the Museum closed its doors to the public for good, the reason being lack of funding available to the Council.

The Red House is best known as a home to Mary Taylor, a close friend of Charlotte Bronte, one of the three famous Victorian literary sisters. The two women met at the Roe Head School and formed a strong bond which lasted to the end of their days. Mary was an independent woman who refused to conform to the behaviour expected of a 19th century woman. She influenced Charlotte greatly, especially in encouraging her to travel to Brussels where she accompanied her herself.

The house was built in the 17th century by William Taylor and it remained in the possession of The Taylors until 1920s. It was unusually built of red brick instead of local stone. The Taylors (Joshua, Anne and their six children, Mary being one of them) were prosperous woollen cloth manufactures and merchants. They owned a mill not far from their house and sold woollen cloth to Europe and America. The museum is decorated and furnished in the style of 1830's when Charlotte was a frequent visitor. In her novel "Shirley" she features Red House as "Briarmains" and the Taylor Family as the "Yorkes".

The 2016 Christmas event was a huge success. It was very busy, the house filled all day with visitors wanting to have one last look at this beautiful place and enjoy Victorian Christmas decorations and atmosphere. Apparently, there were more people there than at any event in the last few years.

There was a Christmassy, festive atmosphere not just in the house, but outside too, and throughout the day there were telltale signs of a big event under way.

The house and the grounds looked beautiful even on this grey and cold winter day. I wondered if at least the lovely, award winning, recreated 19th century gardens would remain open to the public after the house had closed.

The entrance hall with the staircase and upstairs landing. One of the best things I took away from the event is learning about traditional evergreen Christmas decorations, particularly the use of ivy in garlands. The need to bring life and light to the dark winter days resulted in the ancient tradition of bringing evergreens into the house. Any seasonal green plants were used, but the main ones were holly, believed to be a symbol of good luck and protection against evil; ivy, a symbol of eternal life; and mistletoe, which has long and deep pagan associations. There were garlands made of evergreens all over the house, and I loved them so much that I decided I must make some for my own home next Christmas.

Kissing Bough hanging from the upstairs landing. This beautiful hanging ball of greenery was a traditional English Christmas feature before Christmas trees became popular in the 1840s. It was decorated with apples and candles, with mistletoe hanging beneath. According to the tradition standing underneath was an invitation to be kissed.

In the parlour members of Nonsuch Dulcimer Club were playing Christmas songs. I don't remember ever having listened to the hammered dulcimer before and was totally bowled over by its beautiful, medieval sound. There were some other mellifluous, old and unusual instruments, too.

The mantel in the parlour. This was the room where the visitors were received. Charlotte Bronte described it in "Shirley" as "The most cheerful of rooms...there was no splendour, but there was taste everywhere...."

The 19th century piano in the corner of the parlour. Music was an important part of life in this era, and middle class women were not only expected to be skilful needle workers but also competent at playing music.

In the scullery mulled wine was being made for the visitors.

Preparation of vegetables, dishwashing and laundry work would have taken place in the scullery.

In the kitchen visitors could taste some of the delicacies prepared by the Taylors' two servants at Christmas time. On the little round table there were some of the most popular recipes of the first half of the 19th century. I am especially interested in this cookery book and can't wait to get my hands on it.

On the table there was potted cheese (absolutely delicious), devilled mushrooms, various home made chutneys, jellied oranges, pearled (sugared) fruit that looked very beautiful, and pomanders - fragrant cloves studded oranges used as room scent. I promised myself to make some of these things next Christmas.

On another table there were some pies, cheese and an attractive looking hedge hog cake.

In the dining room the mahogany table is set for a formal meal with Royal Worcester "Blue Dragon" reproduction dinner service. At the head of the table sits "Mrs Taylor". Above hangs an 1820's brass candle lamp.

Over the fireplace is a painting of the eruption of Vesuvius in 1794 which Joshua Taylor brought back from Italy. The painting was described in Charlotte Bronte's "Shirley".

In the study downstairs sits "Joshua Taylor", a cultured gentleman who loved books and art.

A detail in the study to the right of the Joshua Taylor sitting figure. By now it was getting very dark in the house, the low lighting a real test for my camera. I must say it did better than I thought it would. I like the exposure in this shot.

This was taken from the landing upstairs. Near the entrance there was an elderly gentleman selling greeting cards and postcards featuring artwork by local people.

This is the school room part of the Governess's room, the sitting room part being shown underneath. There is a globe, a history jigsaw and an old wooden board game of Fox and Geese. The easel is a copy from an 1830s design. Many women of the time enjoyed watercolour painting.

Staff areas often had older and shabbier furniture than family rooms. Among other things there are an 18th century mirror and oak table. The governess could make tea and toast by the fire.

From the large and elegant main bedchamber. I loved the wallpaper and all the mahogany and oak furniture from the 18th and early 19th centuries, particularly the washstand, tallboy and the old leather travelling trunk.

A detail from the girl's bedroom.

In the grounds, outside the barn Yorkshire Traction Honely Band were performing Christmas songs.

This lady, a member of the museum staff, wearing a period outfit for the event, kindly agreed to come out of the house for a quick snap.

It is with irony that this place immortalized by Charlotte in one of her novels closed in the year of her 200th birthday. It's future is now very much uncertain, and its national heritage sadly at serious threat. With a heavy heart, I dearly hope it will be taken and preserved as it is by someone...anyone?!. Groups and organizations have till March to come forward and express their interest in community asset transfer. The decision is then expected in the spring, otherwise the building will be put up for sale.